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Driving to work earlier this year I saw a bumper sticker that read:-‘I’d Rather Be Flying’. And after the long winter we just experienced I could not agree more! If you have been around the hobby for any length of time, you will certainly have recognised the recent trend in almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) aircraft and more recently the availability of plug-and-play (PNP) models at your local hobby shop and flying field. This has widely been viewed as a positive movement in our favourite hobby. Not only does it get more people flying quickly but it also provides many unique model choices for enthusiasts. The pitfall of mass production and flooding the market with so many options is that often the development and manufacturing care doesn’t meet the user’s needs and expectations, resulting in only short-term success. In the sophisticated world of R/C jets the PNP options have been limited to small electric powered models. Larger models being marketed as ARF’s primarily come as a painted bare airframe requiring the owner to provide all the onboard systems and layout. Often, also providing the builder with countless hours of head scratching, and in some cases re-engineering and reinforcing, in an attempt to get his new model flying. That is until now.

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Before I start, here is an excerpt from a press release by Logic RC last year:-

"Logic RC is extremely pleased to announce their appointment as the exclusive distributor for Graupner/SJ in the UK and Ireland.

The former Graupner GmbH manufacturing and distribution company in Germany, which was founded 83 years ago, has recently been acquired by their former principal supplier SJ Incorporated, who manufactures the extremely successful HoTT radio systems, as well as chargers and other RC electronic products. The company has been re-launched as Graupner SJ and they are extending their distribution network globally with distribution in the UK, Germany, US, South Korea, China and Australia.

The leadership team at the new Graupner/SJ Company are looking forward to driving the business from a very positive and extremely strong position, presenting high quality and innovative products at competitive pricing whilst refining the current range and using their specialized knowledge in development of new and exciting products."

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In early September 2014 I was asked to help offer technical assistance on a shoot that The Gadget Show were planning using commercially available multi rotor filming platforms. Now in the past the show has featured everything from the original AR Drone, and the 2,0 GPS edition to more recently the Blade 350QX, iFLY 4S and Hubsan X4 FPV. Now the whole concept of the episode in question was that the presenters would take over the show entirely, even filming the sequences themselves on DSLR’s from their often far more dynamic (or even manic) perspective. With Jason Bradbury offering lots of the latter and Jon Bentley the more sedate side of the presenting equation both would be testing both the ease of use of each platform, its USP’s, and most importantly the quality of both its still images and HD video footage.

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One day I saw a YouTube video, one that made me stop and think, one that ticked every box I had in terms of ‘wow factor’, and one that got me scouring the internet for more information on its genre. It was made by a group of French enthusiasts who race using FPV systems, with a rag tag collection of Mini sized quads around a French woodland. They battled it out in true Star Wars Pod Racer style, even having LED light bars fitted at the rear of their craft so that in the sometimes dull light in that woodland setting it actually looked like rocket thrusters! I wanted to know more, and try this for myself!

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Welcome to sunny Florida, USA and the start of the R/C model aeroplane show season with the Florida Jets 2015 Jet-Together. Four days of fun, thrills, camaraderie, food, and flying were had by all. Top Gun music was playing in the background and the Paradise Field runway was busy as usual.

There were more large jets this year than in the past. Pilot Ali Machinchy and builder Trond Hammersted are always exciting to be around and you never know what surprises they have in store. I was told about a secret shipment that was expected to arrive the first afternoon of the Jet-Together. Ali and Trond unpacked a large crate and assembled the largest jet to ever

participate at Florida Jets. The custom 1/4 scale, 177 inch long Airworld Modellbau F-104 is breathtaking and the craftsmanship is astounding. This was the maiden flight and the F-104 performed flawlessly. Ali’s expert piloting is always a thrill and to have him piloting his new monster F-104 was a treat.

Trond Hammersted made the F-104 in his home town, Skein, Telemark, Norway. He started building aeroplanes as a child, and advanced to building jets about 10 years ago. His progression in building took a giant leap at the 2006 JetPower show in Germany when he got his first scale Airworld BAE Hawk jet. Trond has made 25 Airworld models for people worldwide. His scale craftsmanship is easily recognised and is neat, simple, functional, beautiful and works flawlessly.

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It is always nice to meet families at the airshows and see them enjoying their time together. Robert and Amy Pannell travelled from cold, snowy Cincinnati, Ohio. Robert worked for a large air freight company and wanted to make a jet like his company used. That idea did not work out so he designed and built a giant 1/18th scale UPS scheme DC-10. The DC-10 looks very scale in the air and you would think it was a full size UPS jet. Robert sets a good example for everyone, as he hands out a pre-printed spec sheet on the DC-10. This is a great example of how to showcase your aeroplanes. The photographers and writers will thank you. The scratch-built DC-10 is powered by twin Schubeler DS-94 HDT ducted fans, with two 12SP LiPo batteries. The DC-10 weighs 41 lb, is 124” long, 112” wide, and Robert uses a Futaba 14MZ radio with 12 channels and 24 servos. Robert is currently building a giant 747-400, 144” wingspan, 160” long, with four Schubeler HST 94 ducted fans. We can’t wait to see it fly.

Paradise Field is on the south side of an actual airport, so there are full size aircraft activities happening constantly. A B-17 was practising take-offs and landings for pilot certification, and a twin-engine aeroplane had an emergency landing with a stuck throttle.

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With R/C turbine jets each pilot is required to have the correct fi re extinguisher by his side on the flight line at all times. They need to follow all safety rules and be prepared for any situation. Jeff Stubbs and his wife stayed in their camper with two large BAE Hawks. He was preparing his Hawks early one morning while his wife was enjoying the air-conditioned camper. There is no engine hatch, so everything has to be accessed from the front. Jeff has developed a method to access everything quickly. Rcacf member, David Shulman brought a very sleek Diamond jet that was super fast and thrilled the fans with very low passes. The jet is made by adjets.com in France and David uses a Futaba radio. The Yak 130 by Randy Clark was another crowd favourite and carried a full load of ordinance. It is a Jet Legend kit, highly modified with scale details including drop tanks, rockets, a cockpit lighting system and scale speed brakes.

The crosswinds were challenging at times. However, when Bob Fiorenze flew his F-14 he started smiling and has not quit smiling since. The F-14 was a three year build and converted from ducted fans to turbines with 18 lb thrust each. Custom made parts include the 100 ounce fuel cells per side, the swing wing and the electronics. It is painted in Rustoleum Black gloss spray paint with no clear coat. The rivet detail is burnt in. Five airborne batteries are used, with two for the receiver, two for the turbine ECU, and a single LiPo to power the swing wing.

Congratulations to Frank Tiano and everyone involved for another exciting and memorable Florida Jets. Do not miss an opportunity to attend one of Frank’s model aeroplane airshows; you will not be disappointed.

Florida Jets 2015 at trapletshop.com

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Blade has a lot to answer for. They are undoubtably the one RC brand that made quad filming platforms affordable to all. I guarantee that if you get 100 multi-rotor enthusiasts in a room together and ask for a show of hands, I would bet good money that at some point a great proportion of them will have owned, or still do own a 350QX, or a 200QX or both!

When you think that at the time that the 3560 was originally released the nearest RTF true camera platform was at least three times the price, you can see why so many people took the plunge. I owned two of them over an 18 month period, and even though occasionally they did have their off days (mostly due to needing regular compass calibration), they did serve me well and were the two quads that really got me hooked to aerial filming and photography.

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From the makers of Robot Wars...

A CBBC production company - Airmageddon Productions - are searching for fearless children to take part and show off their robot design/flying skills in their large studio arena... It's the ultimate test of aerial skill!

Each 'pilot' will be joined by a friend or relative of any age who will become their Wing Man or Woman and provide an extra pair of eyes as they navigate the flying circus.

• Do you like flying radio controlled drones?
• Do you want to customise and fly your own drone?
• If you think you have what it takes to compete in a brand new drone based battle of skills then apply now!

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To Apply:

• You MUST have permission from your parent/guardian before sending us any personal details
• You MUST be a UK resident
• You MUST not be employees or close relatives of BBC employees
• You MUST be aged between 9 and 14 years old

If you or know someone who is interesting then click here for the application form & further information, but HURRY deadline closes midnight on the 23rd October 2015.

Good Luck!

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I’ve been using 3-D modelling and animation graphics software for many years. Its capacity to generate artwork and animations of objects or concepts would be difficult – often impossible – to illustrate in any other way. But the capabilities of this type of software go much further; for example, designing structures and components to be made on laser cutting machines and now 3-D printers.

3-D printers have been around for a few years now, but are becoming increasingly accessible and cost-effective. Whilst top-end machines can cost several thousand pounds, there are now entry-level printers available for only a few hundred pounds. And that’s where the RepRapPro Fisher comes in.

RepRapPro specialise in open-source printers, sold mainly as kits to be built, adapted and customised by the user. The Fisher is intended squarely as an entrylevel machine and many of the structural components are themselves produced on a 3-D printer. The printer offers simple assembly, auto calibration and highspeed motion. It’s currently available as a beta version which is fully functional; however the design is likely to evolve a little before final release. It is possible to buy the complete kit or just the metal, electronic and acrylic parts, making the 3-D printed parts yourself. Other models in the RepRapPro range include features such as a larger printing area, a heated bed and the option of having two print heads.

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What’s It For?

Before I describe the assembly and operation of the RepRapPro Fisher it’s worth thinking for a moment about what modellers might possibly make using a 3-D printer. The answer is just about anything, whether structural or mechanical. For example, dihedral braces, engine mounts or undercarriage bearers (3-D printed parts are light but extremely strong) or purely cosmetic items such as dummy engines, seats, instrument panels, weapons and other scale details. You can even use them to make patterns for large vac-formed or fibreglass parts like engine cowlings or canopies, so there’s enormous potential. What’s more, once you’ve got the print file you can print as many parts as you like.

But before you get too carried away there are limitations you need to be aware of. The first is a limited resolution, meaning that very fine detail or very small parts are unlikely to print well. For those detailed parts you’ll probably want to print the bulkier part of the object, then add the fine detail using conventional modelling techniques. The next limitation is size. For example, the Fisher can only make objects up to 150 mm x 180 mm. If that’s a problem you can always consider printing objects in sections and gluing them together later. Lastly, there’s time. 3-D printing is quite a slow process and even quite small objects can take up to an hour to print. Of course, once you set it running it requires no supervision, so you can leave it and get on with something else.

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Building The Fisher

The RepRapPro Fisher arrives securely packed in a sturdy cardboard box. All the parts are clearly labelled, with the nuts, bolts, screws and washers in re-sealable polythene bags. One thing you won’t find are any instructions, as these are all published on the RepRapPro website. You could print them out, but it’s better to use them online as you build because you can then expand the reference photographs when you need to (which is often). It’s essential to carefully study the complete build instructions before beginning, as they highlight the tools, equipment and materials you’ll need to have available. You’re likely to have most of what you need already, but there are one or two items that you might need to borrow or buy and it’d be frustrating to be held up by not having them to hand. I’ve read of people assembling the printer in a few hours, but I’d say that to avoid rushing and potentially making mistakes you should probably allow a couple of days.

Begin by unpacking the box and laying out the parts bags tidily in a designated ‘stores’ area that is located away from the build area. Each section of the build lists exactly which parts (and how many of each) are needed to complete it. Remove the parts required for the current section from their bags and put them in the build area. Then re-seal the bags and return them to the ‘stores’ area. That way you’ll keep things tidy and organised. It’s a good idea to use a craft mat or similar for the build area as it will be both non-slip and protect the work surface. Most of the assembly work is screwing together nuts and bolts, but some of the 3-D printed parts may need a little trimming and tidying with a craft knife or fine sandpaper.

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The build instructions are comprehensive and are accompanied by detailed photographs and diagrams. It’s very important that these are followed exactly, so read, look and read again to make sure you understand exactly how the parts fit together. If you refer to the photographs and double-check that your assembled parts look exactly the same you won’t go wrong. The black acrylic parts have a protective film on both sides that needs to be removed before assembling them. Take it from me that it’s extremely tedious to have to dismantle a part you’ve just made because you forgot to remove this film! The other thing to mention about the acrylic parts is that whilst they’re perfectly suitable for their job they can break if mishandled, so treat them with care.

As you progress from the relatively simple mechanical assembly to installing the electrical and electronic parts it becomes even more important to follow the instructions carefully. Mistakes here can cause serious damage to the printer, so once more you should check and check again to be absolutely sure that everything is as it should be. You’ll find that it helps to label the X,Y and Z axis motors, end-stop micro-switches and wiring harnesses to ensure that they are connected correctly. Correctly connecting the plugs from the various electrical components to the Duet circuit board is a vital step and should be straightforward, but there are pitfalls if you haven’t read the instructions carefully and studied the relevant photographs. Despite checking carefully (or so I thought) I still got one of the connections wrong and it took the kind assistance of RepRapPro to sort it out. The moral of the story, which I make no apology for labouring, is that the instructions are 100% accurate, so if your assembly contains mistakes you know who is to blame!

If your interested in this wonderful 3D printer goto Sarik-Vacform to check it out.

To read the rest of this fantastic article on 3D printing you can buy the print copy here, or if you prefer the digital version here.

And see how we got from 3D model to the end physical product

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My Junkers D.1. is a Balsa USA kit, and I brought it back as extra luggage on BA fl ight (£60) from visiting a modelling friend in Colorado. The Ju D.1. was the world’s fi rst all metal monoplane and could do 140 mph. Built in collaboration with Fokker, only a few were fi nished before the war ended in 1918. The low wing layout met with some suspicion but it was said to be a fi ne fl ying aircraft.

The 1/4 scale model was built in 6 weeks. It is typical BASA USA construction – lots of chunky balsa, with ply where necessary. Some quite good construction ideas are used and we can all learn from a company with such a good and long pedigree. I particularly liked the square wing tube that joins the 3-piece wing with built up light ply boxes. The wing is 5" deep at the root.

I worked hard to keep the back end light but still had to add 4 lb of lead in the nose; total AUW is about 26 lb. There are a few more things I could have done to lighten the back further if I was to build it again. Having to add lead to the nose moves me to tears, but this can rarely be avoided with WW1 models.

The top cowl is held on with magnets and gives easy access to radio, engine and tank. The guns are held on with magnets to the fuselage to facilitate removing the cowl. The dummy engine has parts in the kit but I ‘improved’ it with the addition of a few springs and screws.

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At last, after my longish trip to the other side of the world, and the Editor not being able to get onto the strip for the standing water and gale force winds, I arrived back to dry and sunny conditions. Perfect, so let’s go and fly some review planes! I arranged for my ‘test pilot’ and flying buddy, Jonty Walkenden and trusty club photographer, Ray Whittaker to turn up to ‘do the business’!

I had two models that needed flying, the North American T-28 Trojan from Seagull Models, for which you’ll remember the build review in the April issue, and a Powerzone 383 foam electric glider, which will appear shortly in RC Model World.

Now for the T-28 Trojan, which is supplied and distributed by J Perkins. This model really does look the part, except for one thing – the kit has a fixed oleo landing gear. Our cover star for the April issue finally takes to the air. Words by Neville Hill and Jonty Walkenden, with flying photos by Ray Whittaker Although it is kitted out for retracts to be fitted, they were not supplied. I may fit them later so it looks better when flying.

I set all of the control surface throws as per the assembly instructions, with the exception of the ailerons, for which I put diff erential in. I also added 50% exponential to all surfaces.

Re-checking the C of G, it was spot on, being 100 mm back from the front edge of the wing as per the recommendation for the furthermost point. More on this later…

I had fitted a new O.S. 90 four-stroke engine and although two tanks of Model Techniques fuel had been ground run through it, I kept the needle valve setting on the rich side.

Jonty checked that all the surfaces were moving in the correct way and returned to neutral, and with the engine running fairly rich we were ready to go. Over to Jonty…

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There’s one thing both racing drones and cars have in common – speed. It’s no surprise then that ‘the fastest name in remote control’, Traxxas, have decided to have a crack at making quadcopters. However, the Aton isn’t just a speedmerchant; it’s a great all-rounder. That’s not to say that it’s a ‘jack of all trades, master of none’ type scenario; a lot of time has obviously been spent making each mode do exactly what it’s supposed to, and well.

What’s In The Box?

The Aton comes in a flip-top box, as per usual with most ready to fly drones. The colours and images show off the model both with and without skids and the camera mount, all of which are included in the box.

Inside you’ll find everything you need to get up and running. Aside from the quadcopter itself there is a 2.4 GHz ‘game controller’ style transmitter, one 3000 mAh 3-cell LiPo iD battery and a 3 amp charger with an AC power cord. As well as this, you get two landing legs (and the screws to install them), a vibration damped camera mount, alternative transmitter sticks and the usual spare blades, manuals and AAA batteries.

Transmitter

The supplied transmitter is a ‘controller’ style handset but there are optional sticks in the box. While it would be great to have a ‘proper’ transmitter with a bit of weight to it, the Aton is by no means harder to fly if you’re used to using only your thumbs. There are two shoulder buttons for extra controls, such as flipping in sport mode, and the sticks themselves click in, which is the method for changing flight modes when on the ground.

Film Mode

Film mode is the initial mode that the Aton will start up in. It’s fairly docile, with the intention being that it can be used for aerial photography with a GoPro or similar in the camera mount.

In film mode the model will automatically take-off then sit in a hover. Due to the ‘ground eff ect’ taking-off is something that novice pilots do sometimes struggle with and so this is quite a good idea for those just starting out. It also means that those only interested in using the Aton as a pure photography model will have less to do to get it in the air.

While Film mode is of course aimed at photographers there’s nothing to stop beginner pilots from using it to hone their flying skills. The Aton is extremely stable in this mode and has just the right amount of responsiveness for practising flying figure-of-eights and hovering.

WIN a Hubsan 501S X4 white FPV quadcopter drone worth £359.99 and a 12 month, 6 issue subscription to R/C Flight Camera Action

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We are giving away this amazing Hubsan 501S X4 white FPV quadcopter drone worth £359.99.

PLUS

A 12 month, 6 issue subscription to R/C Flight Camera Action – The UK's 1st Drone and Multirotor Magazine.
Worth £29.94

With it's Star Wars looks, the X4 comes loaded with features including an IMU module that contains an inertial sensor to stabilise the drone in flight and a barometer to measure flight altitude. A GPS and Compass module endows it with Position Hold and Navigation facilities, including a Return Home function. Best of all though is the Follow Me function, which means that you can use the X4 to automatically track the position of the transmitter, allowing you to take it for a walk (or a ride!) while keeping yourself in shot with the 1080p HD nose mounted camera.

To stand a chance of winning this great piece of kit, just answer one question:

Who is there to answer your questions on The Hobby Hub website?

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*Prize drone has been previously flown for review purposes
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At first glance this mid-size FPV quadcopter looks pretty ordinary, although we do like its rather sleek styling. It looks a bit like something out of Star Wars, which is apt as we received our sample just after the latest blockbuster was released.

However, dig a bit deeper and you soon realise that it is quite a capable machine, with an IMU module that contains an inertial sensor to stabilise the drone in flight and a barometer to measure flight altitude. A GPS and Compass module endows it with Position Hold and Navigation facilities, including a Return Home function.

Best of all though we just love the Follow Me function, which means that you can use the X4 to automatically track the position of the transmitter, allowing you to take it for a walk (or a ride!) while keeping yourself in shot with the 1080p HD nose mounted camera.

Carry Box

The carry box contains an Easter egg style see-through carton containing the X4, plus the transmitter, as well as a flight LiPo and charger with an AC power adapter. The set also includes eight propellers – four for the quad and a full set of spares – as well as a wrench to deadlock the motors while the props are being attached. This particular drone is available in either white or black, both having eye-catching gold trim. Our sample was the white version.

After putting the LiPo on charge it was time to attach the props. As with all quads the props come in right and left hand pairs that need to be fitted on opposing sides. The prop hubs and the drone’s arms are marked A & B, with appropriate direction symbols, so it’s obvious which props go where. Failing that, read the instructions! A pressed metal wrench is supplied to hold each motor still as you wind on the props. The props are moulded with integral spinners so there are no separate prop nuts to hold them on; simply firmly hand-tighten them and the rotation of the motors in flight will tighten them further automatically.

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During our visit to this year’s Nuremberg Toy Fair, Bob Petrie, from leading UK distributor J. Perkins, waved us over to the Firelands stand to show us the new range of Hitec Red products. Hitec Red uses the Hitec Minima 2.4 GHz protocol so any models that display the Hitec Red symbol can be paired and fl own with any current Hitec transmitter. This is called ‘Pair To Fly’ or PTF for short.

One of the Hitec Red models on display in Nuremberg was the Ares Fokker D.VII, which is the subject of this review. Our sample is the Ready To Fly (RTF) version, which comes complete with a pre-paired Ares four channel 2.4 GHz FHSS transmitter that features an integral charger to charge the tiny 70 mAh single cell LiPo used to power the little Fokker.

Alternatively, you can also purchase the D.VII as a Pair To Fly (PTF) model, which is supplied with the 70 mAh LiPo and a separate USB charger, but without the Tx. The clear and concise eight page Quick Start Guide gives well illustrated instructions on how to get flying quickly with either version, including how to pair the PTF version to a suitable Hitec transmitter.

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The Long Marston Model Air Show was held on the airfield of the same name over the weekend of June 4th and 5th. With its proximity to Stratford-upon-Avon it offers plenty of alternative attractions for other family members while the modellers settle down to enjoy the flying displays and to browse the multitude of trade stands. Here’s a small taster of what went on during the event.

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It probably has not escaped you that in design circles the retro look is highly fashionable. From digital sensors inside old fashioned camera bodies to 1970s style furniture and tableware, classically styled products from 50 or so years ago are now all the rage.

This trend has obviously not gone unnoticed by leading R/C manufacturer JR Propo, who have now produced this delightful pair of retro looking radios and which look just like the folded metal case sets that R/C modellers were using back in the mid-60s and through the 70s, until moulded plastic Tx cases came along. The styling reminds us of the early sets from the likes of Kraft and Skyleader etc. And it is also apt that JR Propo’s long-term distributor in the UK is MacGregor Industries, who were R/C manufacturers in their own right during this period and who were well-known for their own brushed blue aluminium transmitter cases, one of which is pictured close by.

Classic aerobatic models from this period are also becoming very popular, in the same way that vintage models have been filling the skies for the past 30 or so years. So what better way to fly a classic or vintage model than to guide it around the sky with a period looking transmitter?

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Charging Up

As previously mentioned in our preview article, the Ghost Drone comes with a proprietary charger that can fuel up both the drone's battery and the FPV goggles. The goggles are charged via a USB to micro USB connection using the USB port on the side of the power block. To charge the battery, it's a case of slotting it on the the power block in a similar fashion to other camera drones such as some Parrot machines.

The charging time for both the goggles and batteries will of course vary depending on their current level, but we found that during normal use (and of course with storage charges) it took around thirty minutes to an hour to charge both.

Due to the goggles' micro USB connection, you can also charge up a separate portable power device and give the goggles a bit of a boost. This is especially helpful if you are also using them as a standard FPV headset and are out for a whole morning or day – more on this later.

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When you’ve invested a substantial amount of time, and money, into your pride and joy, you want to make sure that you’ve taken every precaution to make sure that the control and radio link between your fingers and thumbs is as reliable as possible.

To-date Jeti have provided their distinctive dual 2.4 GHz, Duplex series, DC and DS transmitter line up featuring CNC machined cases and gimbals using hall effect position sensors, and extensive telemetry system including various sensors especially developed for turbine powered models, setting them apart from the mass market and positioning them as a premium product.

Jeti have taken the next step in providing a robust radio link to your model by introducing the DC-24 that transmits on 2.4 GHz with a 900 MHz back-up system and incorporates a colour display and haptic (vibration) feedback through the sticks plus a FM tuner and ability to play MP3 files.

In the March edition of MMI we have published a review of a new sound effects generator called P110 Noisy Thing II. You can hear a sample of the sounds available by clicking below.

Noisy Thing Sound File

Sound File Notes

The sound file in this link is a Microsoft compatible .wav file that runs from start to finish and comprises the sound of a twin cylinder Lister engine starting up, going into tick-over and then shutting down. Whilst the engine is in tick-over the sound of a horn, followed by seagulls and then a dog barking will be played. The individual sounds would normally be triggered from the transmitter.

Note: The quality of sounds reproduced by the Component-Shop (ACTion Electronics) P110 ‘Noisy Thing II’ are dependent on the quality of the original sound files used and the quality of the loudspeaker used for reproduction, i.e. a cheap small mylar speaker randomly located will not sound as good as a quality speaker mounted on a baffle board properly located within the mod.